Bangkok Hotels in

First, breakfast
09.00: The Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit's Orchid Café, 250 Sukhumvit Road (00 66 2 653 0333;) offers the finest breakfast spread in the city. Fresh Italian bread, Colombian coffee, smoked salmon, bacon, eggs, Danish pastries, noodles, fruit salad, croissants and homemade yoghurt... You'll need this much fuel for a day in the frenetic Thai capital.

Take in a palace
10.00: Gaudy, golden and magnificent, the Grand Palace, Sanaam Chai Rd (00 66 2 623 5500) is the opulent cherry on Bangkok's smog-filled cake. Built in 1782 after the Burmese sacked the ancient capital of Siam, 50 miles north at Ayutthaya, it is almost an exact replica of the original. Highlights inside the huge complex include the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Golden Stupa and the French-style Boromabiman Hall. Best visited in the cooler mornings. The strictly enforced dress code means no shorts, mini-skirts, singlets or sandals.

Go with the Pho
12.00: Visit Wat Pho, Sanaam Chai Rd (00 66 2 225 9595) for a divine massage in a godly setting. For real indulgence try the two-hour session - it will take you as close to nirvana as you'll ever get. Don't forget to thoroughly absorb this fine example of Thai temple craft. The sub-temples, stupas and Buddhas provide a calm retreat.

Off to little China
13.30: Work off your healthy massage with huge pieces of pork scratching in nearby China Town, around Charoen Krung Rd. Few other places in Bangkok match this frenetic warren of alleys for atmosphere. Go on foot, supping noodle soup as you go.

Take to the water
15.00: After the claustrophobia of China Town take a short stroll to Ratchawong pier and the light and space of the mighty Chao Phraya river. Join the locals for a blast along the khlongs (canals) on slow or fast river buses, which cost from 8p to 45p, or rent a "long-tail" (so-called because of the enormous propeller shaft), which should cost around £9 an hour.

In the market
17.00: Forget the sparkling shopping centres - the real creative hub of Bangkok street fashion is in the warren of tiny shops, stalls and boutiques in Siam Square. This is where the city's rebellious young things come to pick up the latest threads. The market stays open till 9pm.

Glorious food
19.00: Cy'an at The Metropolitan hotel, 27 South Sathorn Road (00 66 2 625 3333) is a gorgeous dining experience. Feast on the finest seafood, wagyu beef and other assorted goodies. Fancy something more Thai? Just off South Sathorn Road is Soi Suan Plu - a back road famed for awesome street food.

Seconds out...
21.00: Brutal but essentially Bangkok, Muay Thai, or kick-boxing, is only for strong stomachs. Rama IV Road (00 662 252 8765), tickets from Thb250-1000 (£4-£15).

The in-crowd
22.30: Achingly hip with sleek white interiors, Bed Supper, 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (00 66 2 651 3537) hosts DJs, live music, art and fashion gatherings. It also serves great food. A place where the happy smiley people drink cocktails and dance.